Loaded the rigs onto the Northumberland Ferry for a 75 minute ride to Nova Scotia northern coast. Back on the Fundy Bay.
Pictou (pic-toe) Headed straight for the campground to cook up Freddy and Franky. Problem is there a pot big enough to cook these boys in? My electric fry pan can hold 2 and I can get about 2 inches of water in there and it has a tight fitting lid. Into the electric fry pan F&F went and we watched them wave their claws until done. Reminded me of the poem by Lewis Carroll:
“The Walrus and the Carpenter”
I weep for you, the Walrus said
I deeply sympathize
With sobs and tears he sorted out
Those of the largest size,
Holding his pocket handkerchief
Before his streaming eyes.
Another rainy day what better way than to hit the 2 museums in town. As my brother puts it, a museum crawl.
Northumberland Fisheries Museum turned out to be the most interesting of the 2. The Docents were all young volunteers, lived in the area all their lives in fishing families, and they were very informative and fun to listen and talk to. In the center of interest was a lobster pool and you could handle the lobster if you so choose. There was an albino, 2 calicos, and indigo blue. I thought all lobsters were red. There is a video on their FB page, Northumberland Fisheries Museum, that shows a lobster shedding her shell (did not know that either). The lobster season is only about 2 months due to the lobster shedding, then they are “soft” until a new shell forms during that time they are not elidable. Also, that is mating time. There were displays of 12 pounders which were caught during lobster festival – these also are not good to eat because they are too old. Usually if you catch an older female it is suppose to be released so she can continue to reproduce. Lobsters live up to 70+ years! All these lobsters will be released back into the ocean at the end of summer.
Next is the Hector Heritage Quay Museum. The Hector was a sailing ship that brought the Scottish Highlanders (33 families) to Pictou in 1747. A most extraordinary journey that took 14 weeks to cross the ocean. When they arrived in the fall, they were totally unprepared for the conditions where they landed. When they booked the voyage (of course to escape persecution) they were promised that they would be fully provisioned once they arrived. All they would have to do is “set up shop”. Instead, there were no provisions, the land was densly forested, there was no food or established houses. These hardy potato farmers, having no skills in house building, had to clear the land, build housing, and start to forage for food in a few short weeks before the arrival of winter. Amazing they survived.
A Quay is a wharf. The original Hector, of course, is no longer around, but the people of Pictou decided to build a replica of the ship which was launched in 2000. Due to not maintaining it properly it soon began to rot, so now it is back on the Quay being rebuilt. Celebration bakery is the last stop for the day
Celebration bakery is the last stop for the day.
MY BIRTHDAY!!!!! After a wonderful breakfast made by brother Will of cinnamon buns waffles, eggs and sausage we headed out to 1st stop Home Depot type store for Willy to get a gasket for leaking toilet 2nd stop to knife store to get our knives and hair scissors sharpened. That out of the way we head to the Museum of Industry in Stellarton. It was all about the industrialization of Nova Scotia from the early use of water wheels for the variety of mills from grist, lumber, cotton pulling to steam engines. We were lucky to get a private tour of the Samson , the oldest surviving steam engine and another steam engine built in 1866 and was retired from service in 1987! A phrase which the docent said “these metal forgings were built for sustainability. To last a life time or more” this engine certainly did! The Samson, built around the same time was still working in the 1915’s. Coal mining was also a big industry in this area and much of this museum focus was on the industrialization of the coal mines.
Moving day and we head down the road to Annapolis-Royal; and the coastline just gets more and more picturesque. This is a good place to check out the tide effects. Remember we are in an area with the highest tide level changes in the world. Up to 40 feet and where we are is a good example of the tides.
Next morning greeted us with sunshine so we put on hiking boots and take a small hike to cliffs edge. I am sure you have seen memorials along the side of the road for loved ones, well, right at the cliff edge is a memorial for a lobster boat that went down in the cove. It was nice. We continue and spot a large waterfall, turn the corner and there is an eagle up in the tree. Good hike!
After hike onto Annapolis-Royal. Originally name Port Royal, but when the British overtook the fort from the French, they renamed the city Annapolis after Queen Ann. City had a large farmers market, Will gets sweets and Pam and I get greens.
Toured Fort Anne, then the city street and happened into the Sinclair Inn, it is the oldest remaining house in use today in America! Built in 1710. This house has been striped down of all the layers that have been added over the years, wallpaper, tin roofs, plasters, overlays of wooden floors, in a manner to show the different layers right down to the original structure. A real gem of museum in this town.
Short ride out to Port-Royal Habitation. In 1603, King Henri IV of France granted de Mons a fur trade monopoly for in North America if colonies were established there. A long story I will try to make short. They first settled on Saint Croix Island, but barely survived the winter there. They packed up their belongings, houses and all and moved to the area known now as Port -Royal. They reconstructed their buildings into a square shape that protected them from the harsh winter elements and established a successful fur trading business. Here is the interesting part. This is the beginning of pre-fab housing! When they left France, they houses were premade, laid flat on ships and transported over. Once they got to island, they “popped” them up. When they had to move, they took them down, folded them up, loaded onto ships and headed to Port-Royal where they did the same thing and “popped” them up. There is no mention of women or children in this Habitation, it appears all men working the fur trade. Again, the docent here was a young man, just finished high school, on his way to study law and history. He lives in the area and he spends his winter researching facts for his job as docent.
Back into Annapolis-Royal for Sunday church Saint Louis which is the oldest church in North America (original). It is a modest building both inside and out, reflecting the area and people; which I have not mentioned. Everyone we have met in NS are so down to earth, lovely gracious people. I see why the natives like it here so much.
Bear River Winery is owned by a young couple (by Ty and I standards) who knew nothing about winery, lived in Toronto and wanted something else. They bought this winery which when first started was a diary farm, then a winery. She being a pharmacist (probably the brains of the operation) and he being a sales guy turned laborer have made a very comfortable living for themselves. Wine is tasty.
Last day in Annapolis-Royal we decide to go to Kejimkujik Provincial Park. Hoping this is the last cool (52 degrees) and cloudy day, perfect for a hike in the woods. First to a rushing waterfall, then thru an old Hemlock Forest. Trees here are anywhere from 250-400 years old. A boardwalk was put down over the moss flooring to protect the hemlock seedlings. Made for a nice walk. Came across 2 kinds of moss that I have not seen before: shingles and lungwort.
End the day with a fire, drinks, food and tuck ourselves into bed. It will be another cold night. Tomorrow, we head down the coast to Yarmouth.
Sometimes I am just not observant, mainly because I am focused on something more urgent – like I have to pee. So Pam and I are walking along and I have the urge, so I stop to take advantage of the solitude. As I am relieving I look around and what do I see? Outhouse – 10 feet in front of me!
Love my bro and Pam – these trips are priceless.