Was not easy to get started, that is for sure.
- First, the water pump fix did not work, we spent the night using jug water. At least the spigot is right there for us to fill up the jug a million times.
- Next morning it is time to start disconnecting all the hoses and then attach Wanda to the truck – in the pouring rain. Decided not to chance Wanda problems, left her behind in storage; didn’t even look back.
- Finally get on our way to the ferry terminal and google decided to route us to a non-existing spot, then to the walk on terminal, then to the main ferry office (no boats leaving from this spot). I went into the main ferry office to ask directions, turns out it was a simple left then right
Maritime Ferry from Sydney NS to Argentia Newfoundland
- What an experience that was! 12 hour crossing that turn into 16, glad we got a cabin and slept like a baby with the gentle rocking of the boat. The ferry probably held 300 cars and trucks and RV’s. You drive down a ramp into the bowls of the ship. Cruise was 1.5 hours late because someone went too fast down the ramp and rear ended the car in front. Then in panic, put car in reverse and front ended the car behind him. Since this is the Trans-Atlantic “highway” the police had to be called in, and insurances taken care of. Probably part of problem was there was a broadcast for anyone who speaks Spanish to go down to car deck.
- Met the nicest family onboard: Naomi, Bonnie (mother of Naomi), Adele, and Charlotte (Naomi’s girls). They could not get a cabin so they were all snuggly in a corner of the lounge deck where we joined them for the evening swapping stories, plans for Newfoundland, and whatever. Also joining the circle was Scott, a lobster middleman by trade. It was a good way to spend 6 out of 10 hours on the water.
- First whale sighting was an hour from Argentia and a small whale cruises by, flipping his tail and then right flipper, left flipper out of the water.
- Departing went as smoothly as boarding. We get the call to load into the cars then we waited for about an hour with no movement. We keep hearing an announcement for: “The owner of an Itasca Motorhome please come to your vehicle” Figures the last guy on is the first guy off and he is no where to be found – jump ship? Still sleeping? Do not know, however, the shipmates found a work around and we all weaved by the RV.
We finally deboard and head straight for visitor center for lay of land and to understand our lodging opportunities. Well, VC lady was not very encouraging as the only, and I mean only, hotels are in St. John’s – we are not going that way for 3 days yet. She did say there are “a few” B&B’s that we may get into – good luck to you is her departing words.
Undaunted, we hit the road as surely, she is mistaken. Fools!
Avalon Region
Castle Hill-another relic of a fort strategically placed against a British evasion. I tell you the French just do not know how to fight. That fort overtaken, British thanking the French for building them such a nice place, but get out.
Cape Mary ecological bird reserve. a place where a lot of birds gather on the rocks to have their young. 3 separate species in fact.
- Black-legged Kittiwake.
- Northern Gannet.
- Common Murre.
Time to leave and look for a place to spend the night. We drive and drive on what must be the worse roads yet, thanking our good luck? that Wanda is not with us, but getting a little concerned as all the towns we pass thru consist of 3 or 4 homes and no B&B’s. The travel book we got at the VC must have been put together by someone with dyslexia because I cannot figure it out. I need something alphabetical and this is organized by – well it is not organized.
STOP Ty – there is a B&B – I go in, yes, just had cancellation we can accommodate you for the night. You don’t want to know how much, now thinking maybe we should have Wanda
Salmonier Inn (yellow house), built in 1964, as a convent. Nuns moved out in 1996 and the church next door closed in 1998. Then the Archdiocese closed all the churches in this area (there were 5) “to pay for their sins” – that is what the owner of B&B told me. Guess that’s lucky for us, now we have a place to stay.
St Vincent Point – everyone says to go there to see whales. We spent 3 hours waiting. Nada moved on.
Ferryland – Colony of Avalon –First recorded settlement of Newfoundland
We stopped here because it has a visitor center and we are again looking for lodging. They give us 4 names of places to call and almost guaranteed us that we would have no problem finding a place for the night. Oh by the way, last tour of the archeological dig site is in 5 minutes, last for hour and half, want to join in? Sure, we can always call for room later.
Colony of Avalon was established in 1621 by Sir Calvert as a fishing plant for the French. The fish would be harvested, salted and shipped back to Europe. The colonist built very sophisticated housing, blacksmith, gardens, fish processing plants for that time. Of course, the richest of all, Sir Calvert, would not come over until his 2 story, 2 fireplace, and servant quarters were built, then he and his wife came and settled in. Lasted one winter, and boarded the first boat back to France – too cold. Another guy replaces him, brings his family over, promptly dies and the wife takes over the operation (unheard-of to have a woman in charge). Manages all very successfully until the British come in and burn the place down. This theme of the British and French is getting old.
Ahhh – 5 o’clock time to get cracking on finding lodging. Call all four: left 2 messages, other 2 are booked. Okay, let us start driving to St. John’s which is about a 2-hour drive. Forty minutes out Rhonda from the Red Valley House calls back. She is not around, but yes, we can use her place. She usually rents out entire house, but we can have it for price of 1 room. We drive back to Ferryland. It is such a cute house, relaxing, we stay 2 nights. Good opportunity to hike up to the lighthouse in the fog, see such and revisit the archeological dig.
St. John’s – not to be confused with St. John, New Brunswick
Lodging again is the issue – the “come on” is “rooms starting at $130 night with continental breakfast”. Reality is in season the rooms are starting at $350 a night. Wowsers!! Undaunted, I keep searching and come across Memorial University rooms for $100 a night with breakfast. I call. Yes, indeedy we get a dorm room! How clever is that for the university to get some revenue off rooms that are sitting vacant for weeks. Our dorm (gosh feels just like college days – oh wait I didn’t go away to school) room is a suite – 2 adjoining rooms with single beds, sharing water closet and shower (also separate rooms). Cozy. Breakfast was fair for me as all they had was sugar cereal (Ty’s favorite), bread, and bananas. I will manage as long as they have coffee.
Can’t believe neither Ty nor me took a picture of Jelly Bean Row
Settled, we ventured onward to take in the sights and sounds of St. John’s. The oldest English founded city (1583) in North America actually and has always been a shipping hub and closest port to Europe. Originally the transporting of cod from the Maritime Islands, then exports from the US like cotton the biggest export, even the first transatlantic transmissions came from the St. John’s area. During the wars (both I and II) this is where the “jump off” point was for troops and supplies – both from Canada and from the US. St. John’s is a very large city, mix of old fishing style homes to modern day high rises. It is a city for the young and up and coming. Even the old downtown housing has been transformed into Jelly Bean row, named so after the array of brightly painted (now it is siding) houses.
Because our bucket list on this Great Adventure is to visit all capital, St. John’s is no exception, except it is not referred to as a capital but a Confederation building. The original building has the same story as all the old buildings have. They build them, they burn down, they build them again, they burn, they move them, they burn until they finally figure out that wood and flames are lethal and they build out of stone. And then they outgrow them so they build bigger buildings to house the parliament. This one is vacant during renovation to bring it back to the way it was in the 1850’s, even the Chamber Pot! We were not able to go into the parliament building because they are in session – no visitors.
Signal Hill – situated high up on the cliffs at the neck of the harbor entering St. John’s. Perfectly placed as look-outs could see all incoming vessels and alert (signal) down below what was approaching. I may be wrong, but I don’t remember reading where any “enemy” penetrated St. John’s. Beautiful view of the city from this spot. Guglielmo Marconi sent the first wireless transmission to ships at sea from this spot. No pic
Cape Spear – now we are at the most northern, eastern, point of North America. And we see whales! At last, a pod of at least 5 all grazing and breeching. Majestic animals.
Traveling on to Dildo and looking for accommodations have us concerned. Because this is the season, rates are high and we have a lot more to see. Being resourceful we head to Walmart and buy the cheapest tent we can find, a nice big blow up mattress, pillows, blankets, cooler and electric coffee pot (brought the electric fry pan with us). Back to our youth years – hope our backs hold out for 14 more days.
Traveling on to Dildo and looking for accommodations have us concerned. Because this is the season, rates are high and we have a lot more to see. Being resourceful we head to Walmart and buy the cheapest tent we can find, a nice big blow up mattress, pillows, blankets, cooler and electric coffee pot (brought the electric fry pan with us). Back to our youth years – hope our backs hold out for 14 more days.
Dildo – let’s talk about the name first. At one time, “dildo” was a term for the oar pegs in a dory, the pivot points where the oars rest while rowing. I know. Jimmy Kimmel made this place famous when he visited and ran for mayor in 2019 – winning by a landslide! Well, he is honorary mayor. Another cutesy fishing village!
Willie’s Way hike, short 3 miles, took us through a ferry land.
If you study the towns in Newfoundland, you will see Placentia, Hearts Content, Conception Harbor, Heart’s Desire, Cupids, and the names go on and on. I asked the lady at the Visitor Center why the names – she only blushed. Just shows you how cold it is here in the winter and where the mind goes for warmth.
We set up tent – took us 2 hours!!!! Ty has a saying when something goes wrong with Wanda “this never happens with my tent” well, I can now say “never takes us this long to set up Wanda!” We slept great, had a cool campsite, no coffee ‘cause coffee pot won’t work off the car battery but that’s ok – all part of the adventure!
Next stop the East Coast region of Newfoundland.
Wow, you guys really go with the flow. Are you still traveling with your brother ?
How long are you going to tent it ?
Very interesting read. Good writing Jane.
Love your posts Janie, better than Willy’s bitching
You betcha!